The classification system was popularized by Scabal in the 1970s. Since then it has been used throughout the industry. Today the international wool and textile organization - IWTO for short - takes care of the labeling of fabrics. The code they use defines the super number in terms of the fibre diameter. For example, a Super 80 must have a maximum fiber average of 19.75 μ . Each interval of 10 units on the scale has a difference of 0.5μ. This goes on and on until Super 250, which must have 11.25μ.
Thickness of wool fibers
in micrometers μ
An S number describes the fineness of the wool fibres of a suit or tailor-made clothing. Originally, an S or Super number referred only to new wool, but nowadays wool blends (at least 45% wool) with rare yarns (such as mohair, cashmere, alpaca and silk) are also categorized. Since this is very technical, the following simplified representation makes it somewhat more descriptive: The designations such as "Super 100", "Super 120" etc. denote the fineness of the spun wool yarn, e.g. Super 100 means that approx. 100 meters of the yarn weigh approx. 1 gram. The higher the number, the finer the yarn.
However, the designation is not protected, so that attention must be paid to renowned fabric weavers who voluntarily adhere to this classification.
Scabal uses the Super System, but according to the even stricter criteria of the original weavers from Yorkshire. This means that a Scabal Super 100 garment even corresponds to an IWTO Super 120.